domingo, 28 de junio de 2009

You Know You've Been Living in a Foreign Country For a While When...

...when you spend your Friday night singing to High School Musical (preferable 1 & 2) songs. 

After being here for a handful of months, Chile is really starting to feel like my 2nd home. Well, technically 3rd, once you count San Carlos and Berkeley. 

(Side note: I know this is a pathetically short post, considering that in "blog time" I haven't written in forever, but I promise a good next one, most likely outlining the typical hostel-goers here in South America). 

Chi-chi-chi, le-le-le, viva Chile :)

martes, 16 de junio de 2009

Keeping it Real in the North of Chile

I just got back from San Pedro de Atacama, a beautiful desert region in the north of Chile, and had an absolute amazing time. I traveled with some wonderful people (Cassie and Tessa), and could not have asked for a better trip. Here are some of the highlights:

-Sandboarding (like snowboarding, but without me spraining my wrist this time) in la Valle de la Muerte.
-Freezing my ass off in -12.5 degree celsius weather, at 6:30 AM in the morning, to see some cool glaciers. In related news, getting picked up in what was so eloquently described by someone on the trip as what looked like "the rape van" at 4:30 AM in the morning.
-Showing some random Atacama residents that, yes, girls CAN play soccer. Aka at least dribble a ball.
-Watching beef unfold between Tessa and this random cuica bitch that was on the geyser daytrip with us. This needs context, so keep reading: Tessa gets motion sickness, so a couple of hours into the trip, she asks the lady who was sitting in the front if she could switch seats with her and sit there. The lady says no because "Yo viajo sola, y me va a complicar mucho" (I`m traveling alone, and it`s really going to complicate things for me"). What the fuck kind of legit point she was trying to convey, I have no idea, but basically, it was the lamest excuse ever. So I go up and talk to this spoiled brat, and she finally, reluctantly agrees to let the pobrecita Tessa sit up front. A couple of hours later, the woman tells Tessa that she wants to sit in the front now so she can take pictures from the van. Why she can`t take pictures from another seat (as long as you have a window seat you are good to go) is also beside me. So Tessa is in the second row, and the cuica bitch is in the front. When that happens, Cassie yells from the back of the van, "Make sure to aim {aka throw up} in the right direction, Tessa." Tessa turns around, without hesitation, and with so much agency, conviction, anger, and fierceness, loudly says to Cassie, "I`m going to kick her ass!!" Right in front of this lady, the tour guide, and all of the other people in the van. Now mind you, everyone in the van with us was either Brazilian or Chilean, but some of them must have known English (the cuica had to know, I wouldn`t be surprised if she went to an English-speaking colegio), and even if they didn`t, they knew what was up. The couple behind me and Cass were laughing, and me and Cass were cracking up so much tears were coming to our eyes. It truly was a classic moment.
-Playing with the cats and kittens (4 weeks old!) at our hostel. Wanting to steal said cats and kittens.
-Negotiating (ok, Tessa negotiating) with the sandboarding agency, and getting the legit, non-dumb tourists/non-gringo deal. Realizing that the annoying Australian who was on the sandboarding trip with us who would not stop stop talking, nor giving us shit about random things (She didn`t like the phrase "fo sho"....now who doesn`t like that phrase?) got completely ripped off.
-Chilling and having fun with our sandboarding guide. Him immediately asking us - right after finding out we were from California - "Do you like marijuana?"
-Being anti-social from all of the annoying hostel-goers at our place. Expect a blog post about the typical hostel-goers later.
-Meeting an emo study abroad student at our hostel, who said she hasn`t liked studying abroad in Santiago and has been wanting to go home for at least 3 months now because she is "Missing the Brewers baseball season." Rediccccc.
-Keeping it real with our spaghetti dinners and pan with marmalada breakfasts.
-Valles de la Luna. Cassie and Tess, you know what`s up.
-ANTM-inspired mini-photoshoots with Tessa and Cass in caves, salt fields, you name it. 
-Staying at a sketch residencial in Calama on Sunday night.
-Translating the lyrics of "Gangsta's Paradise" for our geyser tour guide
-Floating with Tessa in the salt lake in tank tops and a sweatpants because we failed to bring swimsuits up north. Trying not to flash all the other people at the lake when we changed into other clothes.
-Fulfilling stereotypes and being the loud, obnoxious gringas by always talking and laughing. Which reminds me of a little complaint I have about Chile. Chileans have no problem with couples making out all over the streets, parks, restaurants, metros, breathing spaces, etc, of Santiago, but if I talk on the phone in a public space for 2 minutes, I immediately get 10 death glares going my direction. But that`s another topic for another time.
-Getting hyphy with Cassie on the Tur-Bus to Calama. Getting hyphy with her again on the plane ride back to Santiago (We owned HSM songs, Tell Me When to Go, SexyBack, Stop and Stare, Hanging by a Moment, Too Little Too Late, etc like no other).

Will think of more as they come to me....

domingo, 7 de junio de 2009

Chile: Mini-Cuentos


Some random experiences I've had in Chile:

1) Dealing with that awkward moment in your phone conversation with a friend when your phone suddenly drops your call, and you realize it's because you have no more money left on it. It's most fun/awkward when you or the other person is in the middle of a sentence. This also means you are missing out on the best part of the conversation, the obligatory but super tierno (sweet/adorable) good-bye banter ("Cuidate harto" "Y tu también" "¡Besitos!" "¡Abrazotes!" "¡Chau chau!"). And the other person doesn't call you back, either because a) they also don't have any money on their phone OR 2) they don't want to use up their saldo calling you back.

2) Cursing at the micros that just straight up pass your bus stop for no reason whatsoever. When on buses, listening to people play music for all the bus-goers (and then asking for donation of moneda - or coins - afterwards, which I pretty much always give, because most of them are pretty fucking good, and it makes the bus ride much more enjoyable).

3) Desperately awaiting my Pase Escolar (Student Pass), which means paying about 300 pesos less (130 pesos instead of about 420) to take public transportation.

4) Drinking way more frequently than I ever have in my life. Which makes me sound like a badass, but really, I'm quite the goody-two shoes.

5) Realizing that 2:00 means 2:15, 5:30 means 5:45, etc. Which works for me, because I'm always running late to things. You can thank my mother for that. 

6) Getting locked out of my own bedroom (this happened last night - of course the one time I don't have my keys). My bedroom locks from the inside, so if someone closes the door, the only way you can get in by using your keys. Getting my host brother to unlock it with a piece of cardboard-type paper. And then getting locked out again when I leave my room for 10 seconds, because his drunk Chilean friend just walked by and randomly decided to close it. (And you thought conversing with a sober Chilean was hard enough, try it when they're drunkenly slurring their words). Who also denied closing it, and just kept crazily and haphazardly repeating "No estaba nadie" (There wasn't anyone there"); I had no idea what the purpose of that sentence was. She was gone. Having my host brother badass break it open again with his magical cardboard paper. At 3:30 AM in the morning. 

7) Still waiting for the Facultad de Derecho to end their fucking toma. 

8) Seeing the implications of teaching the word "hard-on" to my Nivel 1 English class (hey, they asked for the meaning, and well, we live in a democracy, right? Information should always be accessible. The people have a right to know). Almost every class, they find a way to slip it in somehow, even if I am teaching them vocab, on say, transportation and the environment, in Santiago. I really don't know how they managed to relate contaminación (pollution) to hard-on, but hey, they're committed, what can I say. 

9) In related news, teaching English slang to some of my Chilean friends. Although I have to admit, one of them already knows EVERYTHING I try to teach him. Which makes me sound like I'm an arrogant, thinks-they're-all-knowing gringa when I obnoxiously say, "So there's this one phrase we really use a lot in California...." and he's like, "Yeah, I already know it. It's [insert phrase we really use a lot in CA]." The only one I taught him that he didn't know already was "Make it rain," and no one ever really uses that phrase (because who's ever going to be in a situation where they make it rain with their money). The gringo phrase that I find that seems to be the most popular with my Chilean friends is "fo sho"! Which I fucking love.

10) Trying to get a waiter's or waitress's attention. Because they don't seem to give a fuck about you. Maybe it's just the gringo element, but you basically have to yell and wave your hands like you're drowning in the ocean to get their attention. And yes, I'm aware that this one makes me sound like a spoiled gringa. The upside of this though is that you are almost never rushed to finish a meal, which I really like. Especially because in the States I have literally gotten the check in the middle of eating my entree, implicitly telling me to hurry the fuck up and get out of their restaurant.

11) Tuning out in the classes (ok, let's be real, right now, CLASS) that I have. And then realizing that tuning out in your non-native language is probably the worst idea in the world.

12) Opening my mouth to speak Spanish, and then al tiro (immediately) getting the question: "De dónde eres?" (Where are you from?). Definitely not an inconspicuous gringa. 

13) Not cooking for myself. At all. The beauties of living with a host family. I swear, I'm going to come back to the States, and forget how to boil water. I wish I could say I was joking, but I fear that this is a real possibility. 

14) Dealing with excessive security. You walk into a supermarket, and you either have to check your bag, or they put this weird tape on the zippers so you don't sneak any apples or chorizo or anything else that you fancy in your backpack. And I thought security was intense in supermarkets, it by no means compares to my nearest pharmacy, Farmacia Ahumada (a chain pharmacy). They have a security person, called MC Seguridad (which sounds more like a rapper's name, not a job title, but whatever), WHO HAS A BULLETPROOF VEST ON. And stands on this mini-soapbox-type contraption. At the front of the store. And just stares at everyone as they shop. Which seems superfluous to me. Like, this isn't a bank - as if anyone is going to hold up a store so they can get some Pantene Pro-V and Sahne Nuss chocolate bars for free! C'mon now. Also, the MC Seguridad has a little notebook/journal that they write in. To write their innermost feelings, secrets, and desires in?? Of course a nerdy psychologist like me would think this. I am constantly fascinated by this security setup, and love going into my local farmacia just so I can observe this strange dynamic some more. 

15) Commuting to school/my internship more than I ever commuted to school/internship in my life. Makes me realize how spoiled/lucky I am to live so close to my university back home. After it takes an hour to get somewhere here, the fact that my apartment in Berkeley is a 15 minute walk to class seems like absolute beauty now. 

16) Getting whistled at at least once a day. Does not phase me at all anymore. 

17) Getting ripped off by a taxi driver. Which happened 2 days ago. I'm sure it's happened to me more than once, but this was the first time I realized that it happened. And by me realizing it, I mean my gringa friend Claire realizing it and pointing it out to me (what can I say, the pitcher of vino con frutilla (wine with strawberries) that I shared with my friend made me a little sleepy/out of it). We were only in the cab for a few minutes, when Claire sees the meter at over 2500 pesos (It should have barely been 1000 pesos, if that). So she confronts him, and this is pretty much how it went:

Claire: Señor, el contador está equivocado (Sir, the meter is wrong)
Taxista: No, es que es más caro en la noche (No, it's just that it's more expensive at night). Which is an utter lie, because the only time a taxi is ever expensive is if you call a special radio taxi - their starting price is 1100 pesos, compared to a regular taxi you pick up on the street that starts off with 200 pesos. 
Claire: Pero señor, eso es una locura (But sir, that's just crazy/madness). 
Taxista: ¡No, es más caro en la noche! (No, it's more expensive at night!).
My pathetic contribution: ¡No nos mientan! (Don't lie to us!). But then I realized that I conjugated wrong (god was my Spanish pathetic that night), so I corrected myself and said it again, in the correct way: "¡No nos mienta!" Which just made me sound pathetic, not forceful. 

And then we just paid 2 luca, or 2000 pesos (because Claire said she didn't have more than that), which the taxi driver accepted because he knew that we knew he was ripping us off. We got out, and walked the rest of the way to Claire's house (it was really nearby), and got a taxi for me to take me to my house. It was definitely an experience. 

18) Actually thinking that things are salty here. In the states, I put salt on food like it contains the sole oxygen I need to take in to get me through the day. But here, Chileans take it to the next level. I once saw my host dad shake the salt shaker 6 big times on teeny tiny plate containing some mashed up palta (avocado). And there's been many more times where I have witnessed unbelievable acts of sodium atrocity like this. On the plus side, when my friends give me shit about my sodium intake, I can now say, "Well, at least I have lower blood pressure than Chileans."

19) Eating miel de papya (papaya honey) for the first time. Literally THE BEST HONEY I have ever had in my life. If you haven't tried any yet, your life is not complete. Scour the supermarkets for some - you won't regret it. 

20) Realizing that the English words Chileans have the most problems distinguishing from (pronunciation-wise) is cheat and shit, and beach and bitch. Imagine my surprise when one of my friends - who tandems with me - told me about hooking up with a guy who "shitted" on his boyfriend. This also makes me more self-reflective about, as well as curious to know, which Spanish words I butcher (hint: It's all of them), which makes me seem like I am saying a crazily weird, out of context, completely distinct, word. 

21) Not being to fully express myself here. Although I feel like my Spanish has improved leaps and bounds since my first jet-lagged, sans luggage, day in Santiago, I'm not going to lie, there's been moments of frustration where you want to say things in a certain way, but you just can't. Or, you just straight up can't say it at all. There are times where someone will say something, and I will have (what I think is! haha) a witty comment that I want to say, but just don't know how to say it in Spanish. Or will have a conversation with someone, and just flat out say something that comes out the wrong way, just because I don't have ability to maneuver the nuances and subtleties of the language the way a native speaker can. Because there is so much more to a language than vocabulary. There's tone, there's the way you string words together in a sentences, hell, it's the way you use those words - I mean, there might be two words that are similar to each other, but one is better to say in one context, the other one in another. I mean really, a Rhetoric major would have a field day listening to my Spanish babble. And as much as I fucking love this beautiful language, and trust me, I do, the obstacle of being in this constant tension of trying to work your way through the language without embarrassing yourself (too much) or not offending someone, or even just trying to sound somewhat interesting, for that matter, can be a huge challenge sometimes. 

22) Continuously being awe-inspired and amazed by the beautiful sunsets here in Santiago. It's a shame that pollution is the main cause of this. 

23) Thinking in Spanish...in English. If you catch my drift. Sometimes I find myself saying, "I have hunger" instead of "I'm hungry," or "It's pleasing to me" instead of "I like it" or "It seems to me" instead of "That sounds good to me." Being here has also made my English spelling really shitty (as if it wasn't shitty enough already). I'll put one "s" instead of two, add on an "e" to a word when it's plural (I have to remind myself that it's "chairs," not "chaires"), and I've even just straight up spelled out English words phonetically. Let's just say spelling "thought" t-h-a-w-t was a low point. I need to arreglar (fix) that shit before I get back to Berkeley, that's for sure.

24) Dealing with having to prepare an oral presentation....in Spanish. Allegedly. Which, speaking of, I should probably get back to. What can I say, I'm more dedicated to this blog entry than to this presentation. Which I know will only come back to bite me in the ass later. Filo (Whatever). Will add more as they come to me.... 

martes, 26 de mayo de 2009

You Say Tandem, I Say Biking Excursion

So I posted an ad on Craigslist (yes, Chile has a Craigslist) last week saying that I thought it would be fun to "tandem" (which I know sounds like something dirty and sexual, but it really means that I talk in Spanish and the other person talks back to me in English, and we help each other out in speaking each other's languages less atrociously), just because I'm a nerd and like getting to know new people. I already met with one person last week, and it went ok, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to meet more people. 

Now, before I go into the story, let me give you some context: I have a couple of Chilean friends here that I already unofficially tandem with, and it's something that is not uncommon to do here, especially because Chileans interested in English are always looking for ways to help improve their comprehension. And pathetic gringos (like myself) are always looking for Chilean friends, as well as less embarrassing execution of their Spanish. In fact, the cuica school La Católica even has an official tandem program (rich bitches) that pair up the foreign exchange students with a Chilean student to meet up with about once a week. 

So tonight I met another person, named Pedro, and it made me feel like maybe I should have called it a night with Person #1. 

First of all, we were going to meet in the evening/night, and this weon (dude/fool) wanted to meet me at Quinta Normal Park, which is way near the north of Santiago, and kind of sketch. I was not having that, so I told him we could meet at Metro Baquedano, which is a lot more busy (it's a touristy section of Santiago), so that it would be less likely that any shady business would go down. 

So we meet up, and I can already tell he's hella awkward and weird, but whatever, it's not like I could run away from this dude after 5 minutes of talking to him, especially because I really didn't think he was all that dangerous, just awkward. And plus, worst-case scenario, I could have totally taken him anyway no problem, which maybe sounds overconfident, but it's the truth. If you are skinny and have that anemic glow going about you, I WILL be able to kick your ass, let's just put it that way. 

So anyway, we start talking, and I realize that he's not talking to me in English at all. "Whatever," I think. "Maybe he's just shy." But after 10 minutes, he's not saying a word of GringoSpeak, so finally, I say to him:

"Whenever you want to talk in English, just let me know. But if you don't feel comfortable talking in English, that's ok too."

He kind of gives me this confused look, and then asks me:

"Wait, what did you mean when you said "tandem"?

Uh oh. And the RED FLAG goes up.

"Uhhhh....well.....it means that I talk to you in Spanish and you talk to me in English. What DID YOU think I meant when I said tandem?"

And here comes the money answer:

"Oh, well I thought it meant that we were going to go tandem biking. In fact, I expected you to come here tonight and pick me up on a bike."

NOW WHO THE FUCK ANSWERS A CRAIGSLIST AD TO GO ON A BIKING EXCURSION WITH A RANDOM STRANGER?? Was all that was going through my head at this point.  

*2 Thoughts:
1) First of all, who thinks that?!? I mean, really??  Especially since my Craigslist ad was very clear and explicit. I mean, I really don't know how there can be a miscommunication, especially when the title was "Quieres practicar tu inglés?" (Do you want to practice your English?) and part of the description said, "Tú hablas en inglés, y yo hablo en castellaño." (You talk in English, and I talk in Spanish).
2) Second of all, I for sure don't want to be hanging around people that actively seek tandem bike adventures with random gringos. 

So I talk to him for about 20 minutes more, so as to make a smoother escape, and then tell him I have to go because I have to meet my friend for dinner. Luckily, he already told me where he lived, so I just made up a metro stop that I had to meet my friend at that was not at all near his metro stop. 

It was weird though because after he found out what my definition (and basically everyone else in Chile's definition) of tandem was, two times he asked me when we were going to meet up again. Which confused me, because I definitely established that we wouldn't be partaking in any tandem bike rides in Quinta Normal Park, or for that matter, anywhere else in the Southern Hemisphere. And twice, I had to give him the "don't call me, I'll call you" line.

After that, I was never so happy to ride the crowded, hot, and at times, unbearable, Metro in my life. I didn't even mind that it was so crowded that I was contorted into a weird and awkward standing position, and that my ass was obnoxiously sticking in someone's face for a whole 5 metro stops. I mean, really, the world looks a whole lot more beautiful when something like that happens to you.

So that's really my story. I wish I could end on some sort of hint of a trying pathetically to be witty note, but to be quite frank, I'm still pretty speechless (although obviously not speechless enough to partake in devoting a whole blog entry to it). So this is where I'm going to stop now. Done. Ok?

lunes, 25 de mayo de 2009

Starlight Starbright STARBUCK'S

So recently I found out that the "Starbuck's" I went to during that day of desperation, homesickness, and capriciousness was NOT a Starbuck's (apparently I'm illiterate), but rather, a knock-off called Starlight. Apparently I'm blind as well, since the logo doesn't have the crazy-haired lady on it, but rather, a lighthouse. I'm a hot mess.

But, in better news, I have yet to cross over to the evil side here in Chile!

Ok, let's be real though. There's a Starbuck's 2 blocks away from Starlight, and today I was already thinking about having me a wonderful frappucino. 

It's going to happen really soon - going to Starlight must just be the transitory phase to pure evil. And by pure evil, I mean pure deliciousness....

sábado, 23 de mayo de 2009

EN TOMA: Update


The students have recently added more unnaturally large banners to be hung from the main building in the Facultad de Derecho, claiming they are on strike.

Also, the chairs have miraculously been resurrected, and are back in full force.

I don't think this strike is going away anytime soon. 

Chucha. 

Buckle Up

Last week, for the first time in more than 3 months, I rode in a Taxi that not only had a seatbelt, but also a buckle that I could find to connect to. My survival instinct kicked in, and I rapidly buckled up. 

I felt constricted. Limited. Confined. Enclosed. Suppressed. Bottled up. 

It felt strange. It felt unnatural.

I've been in Chile way too long.